We travelled 1st class as advised, which gave us a two bunk compartment and a sink in the corner. We arrived early at Dar station, which was heaving with humanity and all their bags heading for Christmas somewhere else. We finally set off late after much shunting at 7 pm.
The train was packed and we were pleased to have a space to ourselves. 
The guards and attendants were concerned for our safety (from theiving) and insisted we close our outside window at night for security as there were many stops at halts along the way. We were brought food to the cabin which consisted of chicken and rice/chips and spinach. This was the only thing on the menu for the whole trip apart from omlette and spiced tea for breakfast. The food was delicious and hot, if monotonous, and washed down by warm beer. A strip wash before bed was most welcome, best done in the dark so as not to terrify anyone outside.
Dawn brought us to a completely different landscape; dry, parched land, with many baobab trees standing sentinel and distant hills covered in scrub. 
The guards and attendants were concerned for our safety (from theiving) and insisted we close our outside window at night for security as there were many stops at halts along the way. We were brought food to the cabin which consisted of chicken and rice/chips and spinach. This was the only thing on the menu for the whole trip apart from omlette and spiced tea for breakfast. The food was delicious and hot, if monotonous, and washed down by warm beer. A strip wash before bed was most welcome, best done in the dark so as not to terrify anyone outside.Dawn brought us to a completely different landscape; dry, parched land, with many baobab trees standing sentinel and distant hills covered in scrub. 
We arrived in Dodoma, the so called Capital at midday. Still very dry. Someone enterprising has planted olive trees which seemed curious but they
looked healthy and were in fruit. All came clear when we saw a Lombardy style church with seperate campanile....the Italians were here!
looked healthy and were in fruit. All came clear when we saw a Lombardy style church with seperate campanile....the Italians were here!Travelling by train was a wonderful way of witnessing rural life in Tanzania. The hardship was clearly visible; children in old ragged clothes, shoeless and thin.
Bicycles seemed the only common form of transport apart from train and feet. Even the cows were thin.
We arrived in Tabora, Annie's birthplace at 11 at night, so not much to see apart from another very busy station. Here the train split in two, 8 carriages being taken off to go to Kigoma. I (A) watched fascinated as a family of 12 including 5 kids squeezed themselves into an already full carriage, with all their bags, through the window amid much heated discussion....made First Great Western seem a doddle!
Coming further north and climbing all the time, it became cooler and the countryside greener. We passed small rice fields (Shinyanga is famous for it's rice) and generally people were more prosperous. 
Coming into Mwanza we passed through a valley bordered by huge rock formations, remimdimg us of Dartmoor Tors. We eventually arrived in Mwanza at 3pm, 44hrs after setting off from the coast.
All along the way when stopping at halts and stations, there were people selling wares---anything from wooden spoons, woven mats, pottery stoves to rice and food. Our neighbour bought something every time for Christmas! We were also filmed by a Japanese film crew making a documentary on train journeys.....
We caught the (smart) night ferry from Mwanza, arriving at Kemondo Bay in the early hours and arrived home safely. It was good to sleep in a bed that night that was not moving!
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